Faroe Knitting

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Two Knitted Hats

My daughter has knitted two hats, and I think they turned out so well, that they deserve to be on the blog.
The first one is from an old Fair Isle pattern. It is available for free at Kathleen Taylor’s Dakota Dreams The yarn used is 2-ply Sirri.

The other one is striped. The yarn used is 2-ply Sirri except for the yellow and green. The pattern is from a Danish book Hattedamer by Annette Danielsen.

An Important part of the Woman’s National Dress

From an exhibition of handicrafts in Tilhaldið in Tórshavn, a center for retirees, where one of their many activities is knitting

A very important part of the woman’s national costume is the knitted blouse. Although it is very traditional, it has changed through times, according to how the young girls wish for their costume to look. Changes are made to the colours and patterns of the blouse, as well as to the length of the sleeves. Not many years ago, most blouses were in stranded knitting in the colours red and black or dark blue, and the sleeves were short.

The black blouse with long sleeves belongs to my daughter. Her grandmother made ​​it according to her wishes. Plain blouses with long sleeves are seen more and more. The short sleeves are cold if you mostly wear your dress outdoors.

The red blouse is knitted in a traditional Scandinavian pattern. In Faroese it is called “rokkarnir”, the spinning wheels. Very nice finish with a braided edge.


The blue blouse is knitted in a traditional Faroese pattern for the woman’s blouse, and the edges are in black velvet.

What is on our needles?

What is on our needles right now, someone might ask and to answer that question I have gathered the projects we are working on right now.

My daughter saw a Fair Isle scarf from Tommy Hilfiger, and went right ahead and tried knitting her own version. This is what it looks like so far.

All the colours are from Sirri except the yellow one, which is from Snældan.

She’s not using the light brown yarn. It was just lying there in the basket.

Here is one of my own projects. A top in 1-ply Snældan. I thought it would be extremely warm, but it actually doesn’t feel that different from a cotton top.
I have tried it on, but I still think it needs a border around the armholes and neck, so I am currently awaiting a brilliant idea for a border to hit me.

The ribbing is twisting slightly. It often does that when you knit in 1-ply.

The last project will probably take some time to finish. It’s a bedspread in Granny Squares. I love Granny squares. You can start them, put them away, forget about them, and then find them again and continue where you left off.

My Granny Squares are crocheted using Sirri 2-ply colour and white. My plan right now is to make half of the squares white in the centre with two coloured rounds, and the other half coloured in the centre and with two white rounds. I might change my mind later, though.

Purple Sweater

Size: (Extra Small/Small )Medium/Large.

Materials:
(300) 400 g 3 ply Purple Sirri  yarn, C10,
Circular needle size 7 mm.
Stitch markers.

Gauge: 10 cm = 13 sts

Abbreviations: knit = K, purl = P, stitches = sts, continue = cont,  increase = INC, decrease = DEC,  beginning = BEG, knit 2 together through the back loops = k2tog tbl, knit 2 together = k2tog,  Double Pointed Needles = DPN, S1 K1 PSSO = SKP, slip = S, pass the slipped stitch over = PSSO.

IMPORTANT: You need to be familiar with the magic loop method to knit this sweater, alternatively, when the pattern states magic loop is needed, you can work in the round on DPNs.

Body

Cast on (90) 120 sts on circular needle size 7 mm and join in the round to work circular.
Work 3 rounds of rib K1, P1.
Inc evenly to (94) 122 sts on the next row.
Using stitch markers split the work up by inserting a stitch marker at the beginning of the row, now work (47) 61 sts and insert another marker.
Cont in rib until you have (42) 45 cm.
Armhole: Cast off 6 sts under each arm (3 on each side of the stitch markers).
Now rest this piece.

Sleeves

Cast on (34) 38 sts on circular needle size 7 mm and join in the round – magic loop.
Work in rib K1 P1 until you have (45) 48 cm.
Cast off 6 sts under each arm.
Knit another sleeve in the same way.

Join for raglan

Now join the sleeves and body as follows:
Using circular needle size 7 mm  and working in rib knit a row on one sleeve, now take the resting body piece and work the sts from the front of the body, then work the second sleeve, and finish of working the back of the body.
You have now joined all the stitches on one needle and you are ready to continue working the raglan.
Place 4 stitch markers where the four parts are joined (i.e. one at the beg and end of each sleeve). Ensure to use a marker in a different colour to indicate where the row starts. (The beg of the row is behind the left sleeve).
The stitch markers are placed where you are supposed to decrease for raglan.

Dec for raglan on every third row as follows:
Work 3 sts on each side of the stitch marker (6 sts in total) as follows: k2tog, k2, SKP.

Cont raglan decreases until you have worked 22 cm.

Neck

Knit one round where you dec evenly to 64 sts.
Work rib k1 p1 for 10 rounds.
Cast off (K over K and P over P).
Fold the neck in half  to the inside and stitch edge to inside.
Sew in ends and sew the gaps under the arms together neatly.

Press the sweater under a wet towel using a hot iron.

Long Faroese Sweater

Free pattern for Faroese sweater with raglan sleeves and worked in the round

Size: (Small )Medium/Large.
If you want to increase or decrease the pattern for custom sizing, note the chart is repeated over 12×12 stitches.

Materials:
(300) 400 g 3 ply un-dyed white Sirri yarn,
(200) 300 g 3 ply un-dyed light gray Sirri yarn.
Circular needle size 6 mm and 8 mm.
Stitch markers.

Gauge: 10 cm = 11 sts.

Abbreviations: knit = K, purl = P, stitches = sts, continue = cont,  increase = INC, decrease = DEC,  main colour = MC, beginning = BEG, knit 2 together through the back loops = k2tog tbl, knit 2 together = k2tog,  Double Pointed Needles = DPN.

IMPORTANT: You need to be familiar with the magic loop method to knit this sweater, alternatively, when the pattern states magic loop is needed, you can work in the round on DPNs.

Body

Using MC cast on (124) 136 sts on circular needle size 6 mm and join in the round to work circular.
Work 12 rounds of rib K1, P1.
Change to circular needles size 8 mm and knit rows circular. On row 1 Inc evenly to (132) 144 sts .
On row 2, while working in pattern from chart, divide the work up so you have a clear vision of what is the back and front of the piece as follows:
Using stitch markers split the work up by inserting a stitch marker at the beginning of the row, now work (66) 72 sts and insert another marker.
While at the same time work the pattern repeat from the chart.
To get a diamond in the middle of the front:
Size small start by the red arrow, size medium/large start by the green arrow. The red and the green block show the 12×12 sts that you repeat.
Work (45) 48 cm in pattern as charted.
Armhole: Cast off 6 sts under each arm (3 on each side of the stitch markers).
Now rest this piece.

Sleeve

Using MC cast on (28) 30 sts on circular needle size 6 mm and join in the round – magic loop.
Work 12 rounds of rib K1, P1.
Change to circular needles size 8 mm and knit rows in rounds. On row 1 Inc evenly to (34) 38 sts.
Start working the chart pattern design and inc 1 sts at the beg and end on every 4th row until you have (54) 60 sts.
Cont working straight up without further inc until the sleeve is (50) 52 cm long.
Cast off 6 sts under each arm .
Ensure you finish on the same pattern row as on the body.

Knit another sleeve in the same way.

Join for raglan

Ensure you have reached the same row of the pattern chart on the sleeves and body.
Now join the sleeves and body as follows:
Using circular needle size 8 mm  and working in pattern knit a row on one sleeve, now take the resting body piece and work the sts from the front of the body, then work the second sleeve, and finish of working the back of the body.
You have now joined all the stitches on one needle and you are ready to continue working the raglan.
Place 4 stitch markers where the four parts are joined (i.e. one at the beg and end of each sleeve). Ensure to use a marker in a different colour to indicate where the row starts. (The beg of the row is behind the left sleeve).
The stitch markers are placed where you are supposed to decrease for raglan. Work 3 sts on each side of the marker (6 in total) in MC all the way to the neck while working the body and sleeves in pattern.

Dec for raglan on every second row as follows:
In MC work 3 sts on each side of the stitch marker (6 sts in total) as follows: k2tog tbl, k2, k2tog.

Cont raglan decreases until you have worked (18) 20 cm.
Now work short rows as follows still in chart pattern
*K until you reach the second stitch marker, turn and P back until you reach the 3rd stitch marker. Turn and K back to the second stitch marker again.
Knit a whole round*.
Repeat from *-* two more times.

Neck

Change to MC and and knit one round. Then knit one round where you dec evenly to (56) 60 sts.
Change to circular needle size 6 mm  and work  rib k1 p1 for 5 rounds.
Cast off (K over K and P over P).
Sew in ends and sew the gaps under the arms together neatly.

The un-dyed Sirri yarn can be dirty, so hand wash the sweater before use. Roll it into a big towel to press out most of the water and let it dry flat in shape.
When it is dry you can press it under a wet towel using a hot iron.

Baby Vest

baby vest

There is a new little cousin in the family, which gives me an excuse to knit a baby vest. The pattern is all in my head, since I have made many of these for my own children as well.
I will try to write the pattern down this time.

The yarn is Sirri undyed 1 ply.